Relearn Your ABCs

ABC… anything but Chardonnay. We’ll that might have been true when new French oak barrels were more affordable, but now they cost more than $1000 each! Savvy winemakers like Hugh Chappelle at Lynmar Winery only put Chardonnay in some new barrels and some that are 1 and 2 years old. This way the true character of Chardonnay can shine through, uninhibited by too much oak aromas and flavors. Working with Hugh when he was winemaker at Flowers Winery for the 2002 vintage, I learned a couple of things about how Chardonnay should be treated. With care, first and foremost. The grapes have to be cool… picked early in the morning, then hand sorted to get only the best grapes into the press, and then the juice is gently moved into the winery tanks to settle. Certain barrel regimen should be chosen: how many new, how many older, and which kind of barrels to use. If I remember right, Hugh likes Francois Freres mediums and Louis Latour’s house blend, and only uses 20 to 40 percent of them that are new. He would have me smell each barrel before I dared put any wine into it. I noticed some had a cinnamon quality, others vanilla, others tea and floral aromas. Each barrel of Chardonnay would be tucked into the winery and stored. I stirred the lees in each and every one of them at one point or another while at Flowers Winery in 2002 countless times over, encouraging the citrusy, floral aromas to emerge. Now that Hugh is at Lynmar Winery, and tasting his utterly stunning Lynmar Chardonnay Russian River, I can see that Hugh still has the magic touch with Chard. Citrusy and leesy, floral and crisp in the nose, rich, yet delicate on the palate. It’s one of the best, and why I love Chardonnay. Cheers, Hugh!

a.ferguson